Gear: Hub City Vintage Watch Rolls

People who know me know that I’ve recently picked up a really bad case of watch fever. Hopefully it’s not terminal, but it’s bad enough that, over the past year, I’ve accumulated enough watches to need a way to safely house and transport them all. To that end, I recently purchased something called a watch roll from a fantastic company out of South Carolina called Hub City Vintage. And I liked that first roll so much that I went ahead and purchased two more.

My experience with the Hub City Vintage family of watch rolls inspired me to create this video review. Give it a click if you’d like to learn more about watch rolls, discover why the watch lover in your life might need one, and why I think the Hub City Vintage family of watch rolls is perfect for the type of person who, like me, never thought they’d find themselves buying a watch roll.

Oh, and I think it’s worth mentioning that Hub City Vintage watch rolls are all handmade in the USA, all feature 100-percent natural materials, and can all be spec’d as fully vegan products. This is really rare in the watch roll space, which is filled with products that rely heavily on leather or microfiber synthetics. If this is important to you, definitely give HCV’s family of watch rolls a look

Links referenced in the video:

• Hub City Vintage Watch Rolls
• The Unwound Podcast
• Otter Wax All-Natural Fabric Wax

This One Goes to Eleven

The Kobe XI Elite is a fitting capstone to the Black Mamba’s storied on-court career.

When I wrote about the Kobe 9 Elite last January, I suggested it might be the last shoe that Bryant would wear in action as a professional in the Association. But, as all y’all already know, the Black Mamba proved doubters like myself wrong and has managed to will his battered body back for one more season—a season he kicked off in the Kobe X and will finish in his ultimate in-game shoe, the Kobe XI Elite. It’s clear that this final campaign won’t go down as among Bryant’s best, but, after spending time in the Kobe XI Elite, I’m convinced his final game shoe will nonetheless be remembered as a high point in a signature line that’s changed the shape of basketball footwear.

figure 1. Really, what is there to say—the Nike Kobe XI Elite is a stunner. As you can see on the tag affixed to the collar lining in the shot above, this is a colorway I created via NIKEiD. You’ll pay beaucoup bucks for the privilege, but the results can be pretty damn compelling.

I know a lot of people will disagree vehemently with me on this, but I think it’s a matter of fact that no signature shoe line has done more to change the fundamental silhouette of basketball footwear than Kobe’s eleven namesake models. Okay, okay, after you’re done yelling at your screen and rage tweeting me, hear me out because I know what you’re thinking: “Clearly, you’re forgetting about a certain Air Jordan line, you dumb ass.”

I acknowledge that the sixteen signature models that MJ donned for in-game action did more to change the aesthetic of athletic footwear than any other line of shoes, before or since. But let’s compare MJ’s first shoe, the Air Jordan I, with the last he would wear on court, the Air Jordan XVIII: Both were cut high around the ankle; both were fashioned with cut-and-sew leather uppers; and, while the XVIII featured double-lasted construction (meaning its upper was wrapped over its midsole, obscuring the midsole from view), both were built on the same basic architecture of outsole cemented to midsole and topped off with a thin foam sockliner.

figure 2. This is where Bryant’s signature collection with Nike officially kicked off back in 2005: The Nike Zoom Kobe I. Pictured here is the Midnight Navy/White-Varsity Red colorway, better known as the USA. It drew heavily from the shoe Bryant had worn the year prior, the Air Zoom Huarache 2K5, but with a streamlined upper and more extensive use of carbon fiber. It retailed for $130 when it launched, which translates to just under $160 in today’s dollars. It was a fantastic playing shoe and would, I think, compare favorably to many of the hoops offerings on the market today from a performance perspective.

There’s no question that the XVIII delivered significant advances in performance and comfort—for example, its midsole featured a full-length Zoom Air unit supplemented with an additional Zoom Air unit under the heel for incredibly responsive cushioning, and its sockliner was augmented with a molded carbon fiber “control plate” for added support—but I would argue that these advances were evolutionary in nature. To cite an analogous example from another industry, compare today’s Ford Mustang to the original introduced in 1964 and, while the 2016 model clearly offers major improvements versus its progenitor, you can draw a straight line between the two because their fundamental architectures have remained the same. This same sort of through line is evident across the Jordan collection.

Now let’s compare Kobe’s first signature shoe from Nike, the Zoom Kobe I, to the Kobe XI Elite: The ZK I offered a traditional mid-height cut around the ankle, while the XI Elite is cut as low as a running shoe; the I’s upper was formed from leather and assembled with traditional cut-and-sew techniques, while the XI Elite is almost entirely fabricated from a single layer of engineered Flyknit; and, down below, the I featured a conventional outsole-midsole-sockliner stack, while the XI is built on a removable midsole insert that forgoes a separate sockliner and can be customized via NIKEiD. In short, the Kobe XI Elite represents a fundamental break from its origins; as compared to the Zoom Kobe I, it manifests a wholly different concept of what a basketball shoe can and should be.

figure 3. Nike’s Kobe line has changed in fundamental ways from its start with the Zoom Kobe I to its latest incarnation in the Kobe XI Elite. Along the way, it’s also changed many ballers’ definitions of what a basketball shoe can and should be. To my eyes and feet, the magnitude of this shift is as profound as the leap made by BMW from their flagship 8 Series launched in 1989 to the current generation i8 flagship launched in 2014. Both the XI Elite and i8 represent breaks from the past and bold statements of intent for the future.

Returning, once again, to the automotive world for an analogy, this is akin to the paradigm shift that breaks the line between BMW’s flagship 8 Series coupe introduced in 1989 and its modern-day counterpart, the i8. Where the 8 Series was built on a conventional steel frame and body, the i8 features a core of carbon fiber onto which injection molded plastic panels are draped to form the body shell; and where a gas guzzling V-12 engine motivated the original 850i, the i8 is motivated by a tiny turbocharged 3-cylinder engine that’s augmented with two small electric motors. As for performance, the 850i’s giant V-12 could propel the car from 0 - 60 in about six seconds, but consumed 16 mpg combined in the bargain. By comparison, the i8’s puny powerplant rockets the car from 0 - 60 in about four seconds and sips a miserly 76 mpge. That’s what I call paradigm shifting progress.

Of course, both the 850i and i8 are cars, both come with two doors and both feature BMW’s signature roundel on the hood, but that’s about where their similarities end. In a similar sense, the Kobe XI Elite shares a Swoosh and a namesake athlete with the shoe that kicked off the series, but that’s essentially the extent of their kinship. If anything, the Kobe XI has more in common with the Nike Mercurial soccer boot and Nike Free Rn Distance runner than it does with the Zoom Kobe I.

figure 4. As you can see clearly in this image, the Kobe XI Elite is very much a true low-top. And yet, thanks to the exceptional containment provided by its upper, its relatively low-profile midsole and its artfully designed outsole—complete with outriggers alongside the lateral forefoot and cuboid regions of the foot—it feels reassuringly stable during hard cuts.

Visually, the difference between the Zoom Kobe I and Kobe XI Elite is most obvious in profile view. Any baller playing at an elite level back in 1985—the year the Air Jordan I was introduced—would think you were pulling a practical joke if you showed him the Kobe XI Elite and told him it was a performance hoops shoe. Back then, the high-cut ankle collar defined the look and feel of basketball footwear, and the Air Jordan line did little to challenge that convention over the span of Jordan’s career. Yes, low-top versions of MJ’s game shoes have always been a thing, but His Airness only wore those drop-top variants in a handful of games. By contrast, the low-top Kobe XI Elite is the shoe—it’s what Bryant wears on court and Nike does not offer a higher cut alternative.

But it’s not only in profile that the Kobe XI Elite defines a new silhouette for hoops. Look at the shoe from above—what industry folks refer to as the “toe-down” view—and you’ll notice that it wraps around the foot in a way that’s more akin to a form-fitting soccer cleat than a conventionally clunky basketball shoe. In most all hoops shoes today, the bottom unit (i.e. the combination of the midsole and outsole) is clearly visible from toe-down view because it protrudes out beyond the perimeter of the upper. But look at the Kobe XI Elite from above and its outsole is barely visible. More so than any other basketball shoe on the market today, the bottom dimensions of the Kobe XI Elite actually reflect the bottom dimensions of your foot, which is a large part of the reason why the shoe has been so consistently praised for its natural, agile feel.

figure 5. It’s not only in profile that the Kobe XI Elite defines a new silhouette for hoops. Look at the shoe from above—what industry folks refer to as the “toe-down” view—and you’ll notice that it wraps around the foot in a way that’s more akin to a form-fitting soccer cleat than a conventionally clunky basketball shoe. I think this sleek fit contributes to the XI Elite’s agile, natural feel on court.

Another important contributor to the Kobe XI Elite’s exceptional on-court ride is its drop-in midsole. The concept of an interchangeable midsole is something both Nike Basketball and Brand Jordan have experimented with off-and-on since its February 2011 debut in the Air Jordan 2011 and subsequent application in the “Kobe VII System” later that same year. To my feet, the implementation in the Kobe XI Elite is the best yet in that it does a great job balancing the often dueling benefits of comfort, court feel, impact attenuation and responsiveness. Two big upgrades from the insert featured in the aforementioned Kobe IX are the inclusion of a top cloth, which presents a more pleasant interface for your sock-shod feet, and the addition of a Zoom Air unit under the heel. Even as a fan of Nike’s Lunarlon foam, I appreciated the added bounce delivered by Zoom.

figure 6. The concept of an interchangeable, “drop-in” midsole isn’t new—it debuted in the Air Jordan 2011 and first appeared in the Kobe line later that same year—but, to my feet, the implementation in the Kobe XI Elite is the best yet. It does a great job balancing the often dueling benefits of comfort, court feel, impact attenuation and responsiveness, and introduces the added benefit of customization. Pictured here is the “Responsive Full Length Zoom” drop-in, which offers fantastically springy cushioning that lasts. Bear in mind, though, that this full-length Zoom option demands a $20 premium over the existing $45 uncharge associated with the Kobe XI Elite iD, meaning your wallet will be $265 lighter after all is said and done. Even as a big fan of the shoe, that’s tough to justify.

I should note that those specs I just cited describe the midsole that comes with the stock version of the Kobe XI Elite. Those of a more persnickety nature can customize the insert via NIKEiD, though you’ll pay dearly for the privilege. The iD version of the XI Elite starts at an eye-watering $245—a $45 premium over the already stratospherically priced “base” model.

Aside from the typical aesthetic tweaks available to those with fat wallets, the XI Elite iD offers three midsole cushioning options: the stock Lunarlon + heel Zoom version, Lunarlon with no heel Zoom for those who prefer straight foam, and an ultra-primo version with a full-length Zoom Air unit. That last option will set you back an additional $20—do the math and that adds up to a total cost of $265. As someone who’s always lived by the credo: “Why spend tomorrow what you can spend today?,” I had to go the full-length Zoom route. And I do love actually being able to feel the springy-ness of Zoom Air under the full length of my foot, but, damn, that’s a hell of a lot of coin to drop on a shoe that might not make it through a full season of play (certainly not if you spend any amount of time balling outdoors).

figure 7. Beautiful outsoles have been a hallmark of the Kobe line, and the Kobe XI Elite’s rubber holds to that tradition. What I particularly like about this iteration is the artful blending of lateral outriggers along both the forefoot and cuboid regions of the foot. This is a very elegant way to enhance lateral stability without adding a lot of bulk or weight to the shoe. I haven’t spent enough time playing in the XI Elite myself to comment on traction, but the performance reviews I’ve read suggest that it can vary greatly based on your playing surface, with the XI’s tread not faring particularly well on dusty courts.

There’s a lot more I could write about the Kobe line in general and the Kobe XI Elite in particular, but I suspect I’ve already gone on far longer than most would care to read. The fact that it’s the last shoe Bryant will wear as a pro cements its claim to a spot in sneakerhead history by default. But as someone who’s into kicks for their performance and engineering, I believe the XI earns that recognition. I noted above that the specifics of form and execution have changed dramatically from the Zoom Kobe I to the Kobe XI Elite, but what holds the line together as a collection is that they all reflect Bryant’s singular commitment to performance. Look over each successive model in the line and you see this commitment getting sharper and sharper—unnecessary layers being stripped away, unnecessary components being shown the door—until all you’re left with are the elements essential to peak performance. That commitment is what made Bryant a great player and it’s what makes the Kobe XI Elite a great shoe.

Agree? Disagree? Have questions? Let’s continue the conversation on Twitter @edotkim.

Who’s Worn It:
Kobe Bryant (G- Los Angeles Lakers); DeMar DeRozan (G- Toronto Raptors); Jrue Holiday (G- New Orleans Pelicans); LeBron James (F- Cleveland Cavaliers); Stanley Johnson (F- Detroit Pistons); Zach LaVine (G- Minnesota Timberwolves); Isaiah Thomas (G- Boston Celtics); P. J. Tucker (F- Phoenix Suns); John Wall (G- Washington Wizards)

Reviewed by Ernest Kim, April 7, 2016
	Nike Kobe Elite XI iD† Overall:  Comfort & Fit:  Cushioning:  Ankle Support:  Weight:  14.8 oz* † Ratings based on a meta-analysis of third-party sites. * Based on a US men’s 11. For context, a can of soda weighs 13 oz.
Price: $200 base, $265 as tested Key Tech: Nike Flyknit upper construction augmented with high-strength TPU yarns and integrated Flywire cabling; full-length Lunarlon drop-in midsole augmented with a Zoom Air unit under the heel (base model)—can be customized via NIKEiD to a foam-only option or a full-length Zoom Air option (as tested) Pros: Very comfortable overall; very good fit and support around the midfoot and base of the ankle; highly breathable; exceptional court feel with great flexibility at the forefoot (even with the full-length Zoom Air midsole); lightweight; stunning design Cons: Bigger players may want more forefoot cushioning than that provided by the stock Lunarlon + heel Zoom drop-in; don’t even think about it if you crave ankle coverage; some reports of poor traction on dusty court surfaces; crazy expensive Buying Advice: For in-depth recommendations from a performance perspective, see the reviews from NYJUMPMAN23, Kevin Wong or Jake Sittler. The fact that it’s the last shoe Bryant will wear as a pro cements the Kobe XI Elite’s claim to a spot in sneakerhead history by default. But as someone who’s into kicks for their performance and engineering, I believe the XI earns that spot on its merits. It points the way forward to what the mainstream basketball shoe of the next decade can and should be—lighter, more natural and more tailored to individual needs—and you don’t have to be a Bryant fan to appreciate that. The Kobe XI Elite is heinously expensive—no doubt. And the hurt on your wallet is even more acute in NIKEiD form. But, if you have the means, it gives you an opportunity to experience the future of basketball footwear, today.

Symphony No. 9

The KOBE 9 may mark the end of the Black Mamba’s on-court career, but, sad as that would be, this stunning shoe would represent one hell of a closing act.

As I noted when I re-booted Kicksology.net last September, I won’t be writing any new performance reviews—the reason being that my body is too broke-down to play anything beyond a game of H-O-R-S-E these days. If you’re looking for thorough on-court assessments of the latest kicks, check out Nightwing, Mr Foamer Simpson or the guys at KicksGenius.

But the end of my playing days doesn’t mean the end of my irrational exuberance for footwear. So I’ll continue to highlight shoes that pique my interest, whether it’s for a clever design element, or the introduction of an important new method-of-making or an unusually beautiful fusion of form and function. The KOBE 9 Elite just so happens to deliver on all three of these counts, which is why I was willing to empty out my wallet and harvest all the change from behind my sofa cushions to purchase a pair of the Elite Lows via NIKEiD (yes, they’re spendy).

figure 1. Sneaker design legend Tinker Hatfield described the KOBE 9 as “one of the most iconic, most beautiful shoe designs I’ve ever seen.” Who am I to argue with greatness? One of my favorite aspects of the KOBE 9’s design are the subtle ridges molded into the rubber sidewalls that wrap up around the base of the toebox. To my eye, their organic curves echo the shoe’s beautiful, pressure map-inspired outsole, while also evoking the many threads that comprise the KOBE 9’s innovative Flyknit upper.

It might seem strange that I should post this on the day that Kobe’s next signature shoe, the Kobe X, is officially unveiled. But the X won’t hit store shelves until February 7th, so any sneaker aficionados out there who’ve slept on the KOBE 9 Elite still have a brief window to cop a shoe that I believe will go down as the most important chapter in a storied line of signature kicks. And it’s worth noting that I’m not alone in my admiration for the 9: None other than Tinker Hatfield—he of Air Jordans III through XV, amongst many other icons of sneaker history—described the KOBE 9 as “one of the most iconic, most beautiful shoe designs I’ve ever seen” in an interview with Complex TV’s “Quickstrike” crew.

So, what’s so great about the 9? Well, for starters, as Tinker observed, it’s just drop-dead gorgeous. Yeah, yeah, beauty is in the eye of the beholder and all that. But the allure of some works transcends individual subjectivity: Take Beethoven’s Symphony No. 9 in D Minor as one example, or the Jaguar E-Type as another. Like those universal classics, I’m convinced that the soul-stirring beauty of the KOBE 9 Elite High and Low will be recognized far-and-wide for decades to come.

figure 2. Among the many customization options available for the KOBE 9 Elite Low via NIKEiD is the ability to add an embroidered message to the inner side of the tongue. You can add a large, two-character “Short iD” (useful for jersey numbers or initials) and a smaller, eight-character “Long iD.” In my case, I’ve opted for the Long iD only, and included a reminder to myself to “Dream By Day.” This shot also offers a good look at the KOBE 9 Elite’s beautiful carbon fiber heel counter and lateral support wing. Given the relatively high cost of carbon fiber, the material is limited to the primo priced Elite versions of the shoe.

A critical enabler of the KOBE 9 Elite’s transcendent design is the innovative manufacturing method underpinning its upper: Nike Flyknit. For the past several centuries, shoe uppers have been constructed using a process industry folks call cut-and-sew. As the name suggests, this involves cutting small panels of material out of larger sheets, and then sewing or glueing those panels together to form a finished upper. The longevity of this basic process speaks to its utility, but there are some downsides.

First, joining panels of material together—whether through sewing or glueing—invariably introduces stiffness along the interface where those panels meet. Related to this point, it can be very challenging to add targeted performance features via cut-and-sew without sacrificing comfort. Say, for example, you want to build stretch into one region of an upper and support into another. This would require disparate panels of materials with the necessary properties to be joined, but the more panels you introduce, the greater the potential for discomfort along the stiffened seams where those panels meet. Finally, this process is inherently wasteful because it’s based on cutting small panels of non-uniform parts out of large, uniformly rectangular sheets. Manufacturers have developed clever software that enables them to maximize the parts yield from each large sheet, but, because shoe parts tend to be oddly shaped, there’s always some material left over (the scraps can be recycled, but there’s cost and energy associated with the recycling process, so it doesn’t fully mitigate the waste produced at the cutting stage).

figure 3. The medial view above provides a good look at the different stitch and fiber applications that Eric Avar references in his quote below. You can see that the toe box area of the KOBE 9 Elite features a much tighter knit to help keep the forefoot planted on the footbed during hard cuts, while the midfoot features a more open knit geometry to allow the upper to move with the foot through that crucial fit zone. Among the many cool features of Flyknit is the ability to engineer “tunnels” into the regions of the upper where the designer wants to deliver added lockdown by way of dynamic Flywire (in the shot above, you can see Flywire cables tunneling through the upper along the medial arch). The net result is great fit around the midfoot without the “board-y” feel sometimes associated with more traditional, multi-layer applications of Flywire.

What makes Flyknit remarkable from a design and manufacturing perspective is that it addresses all of these issues. Rather than attempt to explain this myself, I’ll turn to two people with much greater expertise on the topic: Nike CEO Mark Parker and Eric Avar, the creative mind behind the KOBE 9 and a footwear design legend in his own right.

Mark Parker: Flyknit is, in many respects, game-changing in terms of performance, in terms of design … It used to be largely cut-and-sew construction for many centuries, which is more of a collage, where pieces come together. Today, we’re working at a fiber level and at a pixel level … down to the millimeter. On top of that, it changes the game of manufacturing. You’re taking one of the most labor intensive parts of the manufacturing process and simplifying it. There’s a sustainability factor and in this [KOBE 9 Elite High], there’s about 50% less waste than in a conventional basketball shoe. If you look at running [models], it’s potentially 80 to 90% less waste.

Eric Avar: You can design the amount of stretch and breathability exactly where you want it. Between the stitch and the fibers, you can create an unbelievable amount of performance properties. In the forefoot, where you really want some lockdown and security against all of the lateral forces, you can use a certain type of stitch and a certain type of fiber. Then, through the midfoot, where you want more of a dynamic and secure fit, you use another stitch and fiber … Knit, from a design perspective, allows us to use so many variables, and it’s essentially a blank canvas that allows us to design from a functional standpoint and also from a visual standpoint, so it’s really amazing.

These quotes come from Sole Collector, which interviewed Mark Parker, Eric Avar and Kobe Bryant at the launch of the KOBE 9 Elite last February. And, just to be clear, the stitch- and fiber-level control over performance characteristics that Parker and Avar highlight above is all built into a single layer of Flyknit construction. In the case of running applications, that single layer can constitute the entire upper, meaning that overlays and seams joining disparate materials are effectively eliminated. The net result is sock-like comfort and fit combined with precisely tuned support; the dramatic reduction in waste material is a huge attendant benefit.

Sports involving lots of lateral movement—e.g. basketball, soccer and American football—generate so much shear force that the Flyknit construction has to be reinforced to keep the wearer’s foot planted on the shoe’s footbed. But, even so, the KOBE 9 Elite completely dispenses with traditional overlays and is, instead, reinforced internally using a stitch-less process that Nike calls “Fuse.” Much as in running, the promise is an upper that fits and feels like a natural extension of the foot, but with no compromise in the support and overall protection required for court sports.

figure 4. The KOBE 9 would get my vote for most beautiful outsole of any basketball shoe, stretching back to the original Converse Chuck Taylor. And the great thing is that its beauty runs more than just skin deep. Molded from an ultra-thin layer of rubber, the KOBE 9’s underfoot pressure map-inspired outsole design delivers tenacious grip, while also contributing to the shoe’s excellent court feel and feathery weight. But, unless you have an unlimited budget for shoes, I’d limit game time exposure to less abrasive indoor surfaces (note, however, that an ultra-durable XDR outdoor outsole option is available via NIKEiD).

One additional benefit of Flyknit is that a reduction in seams and overlays also nets a reduction in overall weight. In the case of the KOBE 9 Elite Low, the shoe tips the scales at a gossamer 13.7 ounces in a U.S. men’s 11. In all my years of Kicksology, only one shoe has bested this: the Nike Air Flight Lite II circa 2000 - 2001, which weighed a scant 13.5 ounces. But the Flight Lite II’s weight advantage came with a significant trade-off in playability—here’s how I concluded my review back in April of 2001: “the Nike Air Flight Lite II is unquestionably a light shoe [but] that lightness is a product of compromises that make the shoe less than ideal for people who play a quick cutting, hard slashing type of game.”

What’s remarkable about the KOBE 9 Elite is that it’s a featherweight that, by all accounts, punches well above its weight. In other words, you get the benefits of an ultra-light shoe without the compromises in support and protection typically associated with ultra-light kicks.

figure 5. Kobe’s signature shoe line has featured removable midsole construction since the VII, which was introduced in late 2011. There are pros and cons to this approach, but I’m a big fan because it enables a degree of court- and cushioning-feel that can’t be matched by more traditional midsole constructions. I can understand why some reviewers have said they would have loved a full-length or heel Zoom Air unit to augment the Lunarlon insert, but I’m partial to the purity of this foam-only approach. My favorite feature of the midsole is its textured surface, which gives my toes something to grab onto and helps keep my feet awake and active.

At this point, I could go on at length about the KOBE 9 Elite’s unique Lunarlon midsole insert, but I think I’ve blabbed enough. The TL;DR version of this post is this: Get a pair of the KOBE 9 Elite while you still can because you will regret sleeping on this future classic. I know that as an employee of the Swoosh I may not be seen as an impartial observer on this topic, but I was a sneakerhead long before I moved inside the berm, and all my sneakerhead instincts tell me that the KOBE 9 Elite is a shoe that matters—the sort of shoe that, like the Air Flightposite and Huarache 2K4 before it (both shoes designed by Eric Avar, btw), will serve as a frame of reference for much that follows. If that matters to you, procure a pair posthaste!

Who’s Worn It
Kobe Bryant (G- Los Angeles Lakers); DeMar DeRozan (G- Toronto Raptors); Manu Ginóbili (G- San Antonio Spurs); Andre Iguodala (G/SF- Golden State Warriors); Zach LaVine (G- Minnesota Timberwolves); J.R. Smith (G/SF- Cleveland Cavaliers); Dion Waiters (G- Oklahoma City Thunder); Nick Young (G/SF- Los Angeles Lakers)

Reviewed by Ernest Kim, January 31, 2015
	Nike KOBE 9 Elite Low† Overall:  Comfort & Fit:  Cushioning:  Ankle Support:  Weight:  13.7 oz* † Ratings based on a meta-analysis of third-party sites. * Based on a US men’s 11. For context, a can of soda weighs 13 oz.
Price: $245 via NIKEiD Key Tech: Nike Flyknit upper construction augmented with integrated Flywire cabling; full-length Lunarlon midsole insert; carbon fiber heel counter and lateral support wing; ultra-thin rubber outsole Pros: Very comfortable overall; surprisingly good support around the midfoot and base of the ankle; remarkable court feel with great flexibility at the forefoot; excellent traction; incredibly lightweight; stunning design Cons: Some reports of discomfort related to the rigidity of the carbon fiber heel counter; some reports of front-to-back movement within the shoe during hard stops; bigger players may want more cushioning; very expensive Buying Advice: For in-depth recommendations from a performance perspective, see the reviews from Nightwing, Randy Booker, Mr Foamer Simpson or KicksGenius. From a sneakerhead perspective, if you consider yourself a sneaker fan and don’t already own a pair of KOBE 9 Elites, what the hell have you been waiting for?!? Okay, they are really, really expensive, so don’t go blowing your college fund on these if you don’t have the coin. But if you can swing it, by all means do pick up a pair of the KOBE 9 Elites while you still can, because these shoes are something special, and peeps who sleep on them today will regret it for decades to come.

Can a Shoe Have a Soul?

Read the review and find out why the Professor thinks the answer is a resounding yes.

[Prof’s Note: With the iconic XI dropping in two luscious colorways over the past five days (see Hypebeast for sweet pics of the latest drops), I felt compelled to bring back my review of this most loved shoe. Note that this review was originally published in December of 2001.]

There have been 15 shoes in the Air Jordan line to date and several have been, not only memorable, but historic. The Air Jordan I, Air Jordan V, and Air Jordan VI will likely be remembered as seminal works in the history of athletic shoe design. But of all of the Jordans released thus far, one best captures the essence of the man and his game: the Air Jordan XI.

figure 1. The Air Jordan XI in its most iconic White/Black–Dark Concord colorway. Sneaker fans have come to love its trademark patent leather rand, but try to imagine how shocking the XI would have been when it first hit store shelves in 1995.

The Nike Air Jordan XI was first released for the 1995–96 NBA season, Michael’s first full season back in the NBA after his two year retirement. At that point, some began to feel that the Air Jordan line had lost its way after a series of shoes—specifically the VII, VIII and IX—that didn’t quite live up to the level set by the magnificent Air Jordan VI. And then there was the X, which many sneakerheads of the era felt was the weakest release in the history of the Air Jordan line to that point. But with Michael rejuvenated and primed to reclaim his position atop the NBA, Nike stepped up in a big way and provided His Airness with a shoe that surpassed all that had come before it.

figure 2. Here’s the Air Jordan XI in its wickedly clean White/Columbia Blue–Black colorway. Note the use of synthetic leather in place of the ballistic nylon mesh employed on the upper of the White/Black–Dark Concord colorway pictured at top.

While the Air Jordan XI made use of some design elements previously incorporated into the Jordan line—elements like a translucent rubber outsole and a speed lacing system—on the whole, the shoe was strikingly new, and a clear representation of Michael’s distinctive sense of style. The design cue that stands out most, of course, is the XI’s patent leather rand, which extends over the toebox and wraps completely around the upper. To my knowledge, no other athletic shoe had made use of patent leather prior to the XI.

figure 3. And here’s the Air Jordan XI in Medium Grey/White–Cool Grey, which debuted as a retro release in 2001. If there’s such a thing as a low-key colorway of the Air Jordan XI, this is it.

And, more than just a showy design element, the robust patent leather serves as a reinforcing structure, boosting the shoe’s lateral support. The patent leather can’t quite match the level of support afforded by modern-day shoes that wrap Phylon (an example being the Nike Air Big Flyer Force) or TPU (an example being the Nike Air Pippen IV) high up around the midfoot and heel, but support levels are better than you’d expect from a shoe with a relatively minimal, largely-textile based upper. And there’s no question that the use of patent leather makes the XI a shoe that attracts attention—though, whether this is a positive or a negative will depend on your own appetite for bling.

As alluded to above, the patent leather rand buttresses a base of ballistic nylon mesh (note that some colorways feature synthetic leather in place of the nylon mesh). The upside of this extensive use of mesh is that the Jordan XI is a very light, comfortable shoe. The only downside is that, because the nylon mesh is highly pliable, ankle support is not quite what it could be. Thanks to the high cut of the lacing system it’s still better than average, but an anti-inversion structure would have made it excellent.

figure 4. Visible here is the Air Jordan XI’s translucent rubber outsole and its innovative full-length carbon fiber “spring plate,” which helps boost support and responsiveness underfoot. This shot also highlights the shoe’s speed lacing system, which does indeed help to speed the process of getting the shoe on and off. Just make sure to pull the laces tightly if you want to maximize fit and support—particularly on colorways that feature the more minimal ballistic mesh-based upper.

Contributing to the overall support and stability of the Air Jordan XI is its full-length carbon fiber “spring plate”. I believe that Nike refers to this device as a spring plate because the rigidity of its carbon fiber construction causes the plate to quite literally spring back to its flat state after the forefoot is flexed, potentially returning some of the energy that went into flexing the shoe back to the wearer. I can’t say that I necessarily noticed any added spring to my step, but the XI did feel highly responsive and offered excellent support and stability underfoot. The only potential downside that I could see to the extended plate is that lighter players may find the forefoot of the shoe to be overly stiff and clunky. Take a few jab steps when trying on the XI to gauge your comfort level with its rigidity up front.

figure 5. Pictured here is the Air Jordan XI in Black/Varsity Royal–White, which is colloquially referred to as the “Space Jam” colorway, a reference to the 1996 live-action/animated film of the same name starring MJ and Bugs Bunny. Note that the XI’s traction is unusually good for a shoe that features a mostly translucent rubber outsole. Note also that the translucent portions of the outsole will yellow, especially if left exposed to heat or sunlight.

Another component that almost certain contributes to the XI’s responsive feel underfoot is its full-length Air-Sole unit, which does a great job providing cushioning at both the forefoot and heel. I was actually somewhat surprised by the level of cushioning that the shoe provided. In fact, it may actually be a bit too soft for bigger/heavier players, but I think most guards and small forward-types will love it.

One last aspect of the shoe that surprised me was its traction. I’ve been disappointed in the past by the traction, or lack thereof, of previous Air Jordan models featuring translucent outsoles—e.g. the Air Jordan V and VI—so I was happily surprised to find that the Air Jordan XI provides very good on-court grip. I can, however, report that one negative characteristic of translucent soled Jordans is indeed carried over to the XI: yellowing. Keeping the shoe out of sunlight and away from heat sources should slow the process, but this would be rather impractical if you actually intend to wear the shoes.

figure 6. Here’s a bonus pic to help keep you warm through these frosty winter months: The Air Jordan XI in Black/True Red–White. As the kids might say, “It’s straight fire!”

To sum up, the Air Jordan XI Retro—more so than any other Jordan Retro to date—delivers the goods, not only in terms of style, but also substance. The XI is a shoe that you could actually play a full game in without feeling like you’re compromising your own performance or taking years off the usable life of your joints (read my review of the Air Jordan VI Retro for a counter example). Some may feel that the shoe’s iconic patent leather rand makes it a bit too, er, distinctive, to wear in public. But others will love it precisely for its in-your-face ostentatiousness. Whatever you think of its appearance, the Air Jordan XI Retro is a great choice for guards and small forwards who value comfort and light weight, and seek a shoe that offers an optimal blend of cushioning and response underfoot.

Who’s Worn It
Michael Jordan (G- Chicago Bulls); plus, several players, including Reggie Miller (G- Indiana Pacers) and Toni Kukoc (F- Philadelphia 76ers), have worn the Air Jordan XI this pre-season

Reviewed by Ernest Kim, December 23, 2014
	Air Jordan XI Retro Overall:  Comfort & Fit:  Cushioning:  Ankle Support:  Weight:  17.0 oz* * Based on a US men’s 11. For context, a can of soda weighs 13 oz.
Price: $125 in 2001 Key Tech: Full-length Air-Sole unit; full-length carbon fiber spring plate Pros: Great cushioning, very good fit and good ankle support combined in a lightweight, head turning package Cons: Ankle support is good, but could be better; long-term durability is a question mark given the minimal upper and full-length carbon fiber spring plate Buying Advice: One of the hottest shoes released in a year full of hot shoe releases, the Air Jordan XI Retro is a blast from the past that doesn’t disappoint. Unlike the Jordan VI Retro + which had us wincing with each landing, the XI offers surprisingly good cushioning, fit, comfort and ankle support. Even when compared to its on-court contemporaries, the five year old design of the Jordan XI still manages to hold its own. A must for Jordan collectors, but even those looking for a serious game shoe may want to consider these kicks. My only question is whether they’ll hold up for an entire season.

Prime Time or Past its Prime?

Can the Air Jordan VI still make the cut on court? Professor K laces up a pair of these classic kicks and tells it like it is.

[Prof’s Note: So you scored a pair of sweet Retro 6 Infrareds this past Black Friday and you’re tempted to bust them out on court. Good idea or bad? Read on to find out, and note that this review was originally published way back in September of 2000.]

Now before you get all crazy and start calling me foul names because of the poor overall review that I gave this shoe, remember that at Kicksology.net, we don’t take design or sentimental value into account when we do our scoring. Our reviews are based purely on performance on the court and, by that measure, the Air Jordan VI just doesn’t compare to the modern hoops shoes being released today by Nike, adidas, Reebok and others.

There’s no doubt that when the Air Jordan VI was first released for the 1990–91 season, it was the cream of the crop. Not only did it feature a head turning design, it employed the best of Nike’s technologies: Encapsulated Air in the forefoot, visible Air in the heel, a tough Durabuck upper and an early version of what is now the Dynamic Fit inner-sleeve (the inner-sleeve in the Jordan VI is constructed around a neoprene core, while today’s is constructed with a much more breathable textile/Lycra blend).

figure 1. Translucent rubber looks great, but often leaves a lot to be desired in the traction department and, unfortunately, the Air Jordan VI doesn’t depart from the script: Traction is very poor on hardwood.

While the Air Jordan VI Retro has hewn closely to the original, the Retro+ (as pictured here in its exclusive Olympic colorway) departs slightly from the OG in its use of a fully leather upper. This is a minor change and, in my experience, has only a minimal impact on the overall performance of the shoe.

On the topic of performance, what’s with the low overall score of two-and-a-half stars? Well, it all starts from the bottom up. While the VI’s clear rubber outsole certainly adds to the shoe’s aesthetic appeal, it doesn’t do much for its on-court grip. It’s been a long time since I’ve worn a shoe that offered such poor traction on hardwood right out of the box. Let’s hope that Nike comes up with some new compounds for the translucent outsole on the upcoming Jordan XVI, because the rubber on the VI doesn’t make the cut.

figure 2. Even though it’s 10-years-old, the design of the Air Jordan VI remains remarkably modern and fresh. And, to my eyes, this limited-edition navy/varsity red-white (aka Olympic) colorway is particularly sweet.

Next comes cushioning, which is provided by way of vintage Air-Sole units. I hate to say this, but hooping it up in the VI felt like playing on a pair of two-by-fours. The cushioning is so hard that it really shouldn’t be called cushioning at all. I’m amazed that a guy the size of Vin Baker can ball in these shoes because, after just one game, my knees were begging for something better. Nike has definitely made significant strides in cushioning technologies since 1991, and you can be sure that Baker will switch to more modern kicks once the day-to-day pounding of the NBA season starts to take its toll. 

Thankfully, the overall fit of the Air Jordan VI is a bit better than its cushioning, but just a bit. The neoprene sleeve at the forefoot of the shoe boosts comfort and provides a smooth inner surface to reduce the potential for blisters. But the VI’s complicated lacing system makes it tougher than it should be to get a solid, locked-down fit—particularly at the heel. So, while the shoe is comfortable to wear, its sloppy fit leaves a lot to be desired from a performance perspective.

figure 3. The dreaded mark of the retro! Original iterations of the Air Jordan VI featured an embroidered “Nike Air” logo at the heel, so the Jumpman logo is a sure sign that a shoe is a re-issue. In my opinion, the Jumpman looks pretty damn good, so I’m not complaining.

Finally, in the area of ankle support, the Air Jordan VI is good, but not as good as you might expect from a shoe that rides so high up the ankle. Again, the culprit seems to be the lacing system, which gets in the way of the sort of lock-down most ballers crave. The ‘okay’ ankle support combined with the VI’s stable midsole platform should, however, do a reasonably good job of preventing ankle rolls during hard cuts.

To sum up, the Air Jordan VI Retro and Retro+ definitely score big on style, but, unfortunately, style doesn’t count here at Kicksology.net. If you’re looking for a solid performance hoops shoe, definitely look elsewhere (unless you like waking up with sore knees). But I should note that this is by no means an indictment of the VI. Instead, it’s a testament to the progress made in the athletic footwear industry since the VI was first released nearly a decade ago. Technologies like Zoom Air and adiPRENE+ have made shoes better, and sometimes it takes spending time with yesterday’s tech to remind us of that.

Who’s Worn It
Michael Jordan (G- Chicago Bulls); Ray Allen (G- 2000 Olympic Team); Vin Baker (PF/C- 2000 Olympic Team); Derek Jeter (Short Stop, N.Y. Yankees wears a special cleated version of the AJ VI Retro)

Reviewed by Ernest Kim, December 4, 2014
	Air Jordan VI Retro + Overall:  Comfort & Fit:  Cushioning:  Ankle Support:  Weight:  18.7 oz* * Based on a US men’s 11. For context, a can of soda weighs 13 oz.
Price: $120 in 2000 Key Tech: Nike encapsulated Air-Sole unit (forefoot), Nike visible Air-Sole unit (heel), early version of the Dynamic Fit inner-sleeve Pros: Sentimental value; exclusivity; comfort Cons: Poor cushioning compared to modern alternatives; sub-par fit for hoops; sub-par traction for hoops Buying Advice: If you’re looking to own a unique piece of Jordan history, the Air Jordan VI Retro+ would make a great addition to any collection. But if you’re looking for a high performance hoops shoe, the 10-year-old Jordan VI can’t touch recent releases such as the Air Flightposite KG or Air Big Flyer Force.