Can a Shoe Have a Soul?

Read the review and find out why the Professor thinks the answer is a resounding yes.

[Prof’s Note: With the iconic XI dropping in two luscious colorways over the past five days (see Hypebeast for sweet pics of the latest drops), I felt compelled to bring back my review of this most loved shoe. Note that this review was originally published in December of 2001.]

There have been 15 shoes in the Air Jordan line to date and several have been, not only memorable, but historic. The Air Jordan I, Air Jordan V, and Air Jordan VI will likely be remembered as seminal works in the history of athletic shoe design. But of all of the Jordans released thus far, one best captures the essence of the man and his game: the Air Jordan XI.

figure 1. The Air Jordan XI in its most iconic White/Black–Dark Concord colorway. Sneaker fans have come to love its trademark patent leather rand, but try to imagine how shocking the XI would have been when it first hit store shelves in 1995.

The Nike Air Jordan XI was first released for the 1995–96 NBA season, Michael’s first full season back in the NBA after his two year retirement. At that point, some began to feel that the Air Jordan line had lost its way after a series of shoes—specifically the VII, VIII and IX—that didn’t quite live up to the level set by the magnificent Air Jordan VI. And then there was the X, which many sneakerheads of the era felt was the weakest release in the history of the Air Jordan line to that point. But with Michael rejuvenated and primed to reclaim his position atop the NBA, Nike stepped up in a big way and provided His Airness with a shoe that surpassed all that had come before it.

figure 2. Here’s the Air Jordan XI in its wickedly clean White/Columbia Blue–Black colorway. Note the use of synthetic leather in place of the ballistic nylon mesh employed on the upper of the White/Black–Dark Concord colorway pictured at top.

While the Air Jordan XI made use of some design elements previously incorporated into the Jordan line—elements like a translucent rubber outsole and a speed lacing system—on the whole, the shoe was strikingly new, and a clear representation of Michael’s distinctive sense of style. The design cue that stands out most, of course, is the XI’s patent leather rand, which extends over the toebox and wraps completely around the upper. To my knowledge, no other athletic shoe had made use of patent leather prior to the XI.

figure 3. And here’s the Air Jordan XI in Medium Grey/White–Cool Grey, which debuted as a retro release in 2001. If there’s such a thing as a low-key colorway of the Air Jordan XI, this is it.

And, more than just a showy design element, the robust patent leather serves as a reinforcing structure, boosting the shoe’s lateral support. The patent leather can’t quite match the level of support afforded by modern-day shoes that wrap Phylon (an example being the Nike Air Big Flyer Force) or TPU (an example being the Nike Air Pippen IV) high up around the midfoot and heel, but support levels are better than you’d expect from a shoe with a relatively minimal, largely-textile based upper. And there’s no question that the use of patent leather makes the XI a shoe that attracts attention—though, whether this is a positive or a negative will depend on your own appetite for bling.

As alluded to above, the patent leather rand buttresses a base of ballistic nylon mesh (note that some colorways feature synthetic leather in place of the nylon mesh). The upside of this extensive use of mesh is that the Jordan XI is a very light, comfortable shoe. The only downside is that, because the nylon mesh is highly pliable, ankle support is not quite what it could be. Thanks to the high cut of the lacing system it’s still better than average, but an anti-inversion structure would have made it excellent.

figure 4. Visible here is the Air Jordan XI’s translucent rubber outsole and its innovative full-length carbon fiber “spring plate,” which helps boost support and responsiveness underfoot. This shot also highlights the shoe’s speed lacing system, which does indeed help to speed the process of getting the shoe on and off. Just make sure to pull the laces tightly if you want to maximize fit and support—particularly on colorways that feature the more minimal ballistic mesh-based upper.

Contributing to the overall support and stability of the Air Jordan XI is its full-length carbon fiber “spring plate”. I believe that Nike refers to this device as a spring plate because the rigidity of its carbon fiber construction causes the plate to quite literally spring back to its flat state after the forefoot is flexed, potentially returning some of the energy that went into flexing the shoe back to the wearer. I can’t say that I necessarily noticed any added spring to my step, but the XI did feel highly responsive and offered excellent support and stability underfoot. The only potential downside that I could see to the extended plate is that lighter players may find the forefoot of the shoe to be overly stiff and clunky. Take a few jab steps when trying on the XI to gauge your comfort level with its rigidity up front.

figure 5. Pictured here is the Air Jordan XI in Black/Varsity Royal–White, which is colloquially referred to as the “Space Jam” colorway, a reference to the 1996 live-action/animated film of the same name starring MJ and Bugs Bunny. Note that the XI’s traction is unusually good for a shoe that features a mostly translucent rubber outsole. Note also that the translucent portions of the outsole will yellow, especially if left exposed to heat or sunlight.

Another component that almost certain contributes to the XI’s responsive feel underfoot is its full-length Air-Sole unit, which does a great job providing cushioning at both the forefoot and heel. I was actually somewhat surprised by the level of cushioning that the shoe provided. In fact, it may actually be a bit too soft for bigger/heavier players, but I think most guards and small forward-types will love it.

One last aspect of the shoe that surprised me was its traction. I’ve been disappointed in the past by the traction, or lack thereof, of previous Air Jordan models featuring translucent outsoles—e.g. the Air Jordan V and VI—so I was happily surprised to find that the Air Jordan XI provides very good on-court grip. I can, however, report that one negative characteristic of translucent soled Jordans is indeed carried over to the XI: yellowing. Keeping the shoe out of sunlight and away from heat sources should slow the process, but this would be rather impractical if you actually intend to wear the shoes.

figure 6. Here’s a bonus pic to help keep you warm through these frosty winter months: The Air Jordan XI in Black/True Red–White. As the kids might say, “It’s straight fire!”

To sum up, the Air Jordan XI Retro—more so than any other Jordan Retro to date—delivers the goods, not only in terms of style, but also substance. The XI is a shoe that you could actually play a full game in without feeling like you’re compromising your own performance or taking years off the usable life of your joints (read my review of the Air Jordan VI Retro for a counter example). Some may feel that the shoe’s iconic patent leather rand makes it a bit too, er, distinctive, to wear in public. But others will love it precisely for its in-your-face ostentatiousness. Whatever you think of its appearance, the Air Jordan XI Retro is a great choice for guards and small forwards who value comfort and light weight, and seek a shoe that offers an optimal blend of cushioning and response underfoot.

Who’s Worn It
Michael Jordan (G- Chicago Bulls); plus, several players, including Reggie Miller (G- Indiana Pacers) and Toni Kukoc (F- Philadelphia 76ers), have worn the Air Jordan XI this pre-season

Reviewed by Ernest Kim, December 23, 2014
	Air Jordan XI Retro Overall:  Comfort & Fit:  Cushioning:  Ankle Support:  Weight:  17.0 oz* * Based on a US men’s 11. For context, a can of soda weighs 13 oz.
Price: $125 in 2001 Key Tech: Full-length Air-Sole unit; full-length carbon fiber spring plate Pros: Great cushioning, very good fit and good ankle support combined in a lightweight, head turning package Cons: Ankle support is good, but could be better; long-term durability is a question mark given the minimal upper and full-length carbon fiber spring plate Buying Advice: One of the hottest shoes released in a year full of hot shoe releases, the Air Jordan XI Retro is a blast from the past that doesn’t disappoint. Unlike the Jordan VI Retro + which had us wincing with each landing, the XI offers surprisingly good cushioning, fit, comfort and ankle support. Even when compared to its on-court contemporaries, the five year old design of the Jordan XI still manages to hold its own. A must for Jordan collectors, but even those looking for a serious game shoe may want to consider these kicks. My only question is whether they’ll hold up for an entire season.

Prime Time or Past its Prime?

Can the Air Jordan VI still make the cut on court? Professor K laces up a pair of these classic kicks and tells it like it is.

[Prof’s Note: So you scored a pair of sweet Retro 6 Infrareds this past Black Friday and you’re tempted to bust them out on court. Good idea or bad? Read on to find out, and note that this review was originally published way back in September of 2000.]

Now before you get all crazy and start calling me foul names because of the poor overall review that I gave this shoe, remember that at Kicksology.net, we don’t take design or sentimental value into account when we do our scoring. Our reviews are based purely on performance on the court and, by that measure, the Air Jordan VI just doesn’t compare to the modern hoops shoes being released today by Nike, adidas, Reebok and others.

There’s no doubt that when the Air Jordan VI was first released for the 1990–91 season, it was the cream of the crop. Not only did it feature a head turning design, it employed the best of Nike’s technologies: Encapsulated Air in the forefoot, visible Air in the heel, a tough Durabuck upper and an early version of what is now the Dynamic Fit inner-sleeve (the inner-sleeve in the Jordan VI is constructed around a neoprene core, while today’s is constructed with a much more breathable textile/Lycra blend).

figure 1. Translucent rubber looks great, but often leaves a lot to be desired in the traction department and, unfortunately, the Air Jordan VI doesn’t depart from the script: Traction is very poor on hardwood.

While the Air Jordan VI Retro has hewn closely to the original, the Retro+ (as pictured here in its exclusive Olympic colorway) departs slightly from the OG in its use of a fully leather upper. This is a minor change and, in my experience, has only a minimal impact on the overall performance of the shoe.

On the topic of performance, what’s with the low overall score of two-and-a-half stars? Well, it all starts from the bottom up. While the VI’s clear rubber outsole certainly adds to the shoe’s aesthetic appeal, it doesn’t do much for its on-court grip. It’s been a long time since I’ve worn a shoe that offered such poor traction on hardwood right out of the box. Let’s hope that Nike comes up with some new compounds for the translucent outsole on the upcoming Jordan XVI, because the rubber on the VI doesn’t make the cut.

figure 2. Even though it’s 10-years-old, the design of the Air Jordan VI remains remarkably modern and fresh. And, to my eyes, this limited-edition navy/varsity red-white (aka Olympic) colorway is particularly sweet.

Next comes cushioning, which is provided by way of vintage Air-Sole units. I hate to say this, but hooping it up in the VI felt like playing on a pair of two-by-fours. The cushioning is so hard that it really shouldn’t be called cushioning at all. I’m amazed that a guy the size of Vin Baker can ball in these shoes because, after just one game, my knees were begging for something better. Nike has definitely made significant strides in cushioning technologies since 1991, and you can be sure that Baker will switch to more modern kicks once the day-to-day pounding of the NBA season starts to take its toll. 

Thankfully, the overall fit of the Air Jordan VI is a bit better than its cushioning, but just a bit. The neoprene sleeve at the forefoot of the shoe boosts comfort and provides a smooth inner surface to reduce the potential for blisters. But the VI’s complicated lacing system makes it tougher than it should be to get a solid, locked-down fit—particularly at the heel. So, while the shoe is comfortable to wear, its sloppy fit leaves a lot to be desired from a performance perspective.

figure 3. The dreaded mark of the retro! Original iterations of the Air Jordan VI featured an embroidered “Nike Air” logo at the heel, so the Jumpman logo is a sure sign that a shoe is a re-issue. In my opinion, the Jumpman looks pretty damn good, so I’m not complaining.

Finally, in the area of ankle support, the Air Jordan VI is good, but not as good as you might expect from a shoe that rides so high up the ankle. Again, the culprit seems to be the lacing system, which gets in the way of the sort of lock-down most ballers crave. The ‘okay’ ankle support combined with the VI’s stable midsole platform should, however, do a reasonably good job of preventing ankle rolls during hard cuts.

To sum up, the Air Jordan VI Retro and Retro+ definitely score big on style, but, unfortunately, style doesn’t count here at Kicksology.net. If you’re looking for a solid performance hoops shoe, definitely look elsewhere (unless you like waking up with sore knees). But I should note that this is by no means an indictment of the VI. Instead, it’s a testament to the progress made in the athletic footwear industry since the VI was first released nearly a decade ago. Technologies like Zoom Air and adiPRENE+ have made shoes better, and sometimes it takes spending time with yesterday’s tech to remind us of that.

Who’s Worn It
Michael Jordan (G- Chicago Bulls); Ray Allen (G- 2000 Olympic Team); Vin Baker (PF/C- 2000 Olympic Team); Derek Jeter (Short Stop, N.Y. Yankees wears a special cleated version of the AJ VI Retro)

Reviewed by Ernest Kim, December 4, 2014
	Air Jordan VI Retro + Overall:  Comfort & Fit:  Cushioning:  Ankle Support:  Weight:  18.7 oz* * Based on a US men’s 11. For context, a can of soda weighs 13 oz.
Price: $120 in 2000 Key Tech: Nike encapsulated Air-Sole unit (forefoot), Nike visible Air-Sole unit (heel), early version of the Dynamic Fit inner-sleeve Pros: Sentimental value; exclusivity; comfort Cons: Poor cushioning compared to modern alternatives; sub-par fit for hoops; sub-par traction for hoops Buying Advice: If you’re looking to own a unique piece of Jordan history, the Air Jordan VI Retro+ would make a great addition to any collection. But if you’re looking for a high performance hoops shoe, the 10-year-old Jordan VI can’t touch recent releases such as the Air Flightposite KG or Air Big Flyer Force.

Lucky Thirteen

If any Air Jordan was bound for failure, it was the twice-jinxed XIII. But, with his audacious design for the shoe, Tinker Hatfield (and company) proved that when you’re at the top of your game, you make your own luck.

[Prof’s Note: With a couple of Air Jordan XIII Retros due this month, it seemed like a good time to resurrect this review, which was originally published back in January 2005. For specifics on release dates, check Sneaker News.]

For the superstitious among us, the Air Jordan XIII had a couple of big strikes going against it before even making it off of Tinker Hatfield’s drawing board.

First, to the horror of the triskaidekaphobic Jordan lovers of the world, it marked the 13th shoe in the Air Jordan line. Second, a major source of inspiration for the shoe’s design came from the Black Panther, which is essentially a giant, black cat—another sign of doom and gloom to a certain segment of the population.

Well, luckily enough for the shoeheads of the world, it appears that neither His Airness nor Hatfield are superstitious types, because the black-cat-motivated, baker’s-dozen-denominated charm of a shoe they cooked up turned out to be the best J yet (as of its release in late 1997).

figure 1: In profile, the undulating sculpting of the Air Jordan XIII‘s Phylon midsole is clearly visible. This sculpting allows the midsole to cradle the foot and contributes to the shoe’s exceptional lockdown.

What makes the Air Jordan XIII so special? Well, there is, of course, its appearance, which really does manage to exude a sense of feline power and grace—particularly in the black/varsity red colorway tested for this review. Then there’s the fact that many thought the XIII would be the last shoe worn by MJ as a professional in the Association. You may remember that Jordan retired for the second, and most assumed final, time following the conclusion of the 1997 - 1998 NBA season. Though he would provide fans with a very early preview of his next namesake shoe by rocking the Air Jordan XIV through the ’98 Finals, the XIII was the shoe MJ wore for the bulk of what was widely expected to be his ultimate season.

But looks and sentimentality aside, the Air Jordan XIII stands out to me because it delivers the performance goods like nothing that had come before it. Its Phylon midsole, which sensuously wraps up and around the base of the foot, is augmented with Zoom Air units under both the forefoot and heel. This combo delivers excellent impact protection, ridiculously good cushioning response and a speedy, low-to-the-court feel. The XIII actually wasn’t the first Jordan to employ Nike’s hyper-responsive, low-profile Zoom Air (that distinction belongs to the Air Jordan XII), but it was the first to truly bring its benefits to life.

The XIII’s organically shaped, multi-segment outsole also contributes to the shoe’s unique feel underfoot by working with the sculpted midsole to cradle and support your dogs. Stability is further bolstered by the XIII’s excellent fit: I felt absolutely no movement of my foot—either side-to-side or front-to-back—within the shoe.

But the XIII is not without its faults—through my two weeks with the shoe, I experienced two persistent problems. First, though the design of its outsole contributed greatly to the XIII’s overall stability, it also imparted a somewhat clunky feel. There were more than a handful of occasions when I felt that its funky shape and hard-edged perimeter got in the way of what I wanted my feet to do.

figure 2: The unique, podular design of the Air Jordan XIII’s outsole is visible in this bottom view. This podular geometry—and particularly the pod under the cuboid region of the foot—did seem to contribute to the shoe’s lateral stability, but I found myself wishing the bottom flexed more naturally and that the outsole gripped the court more tenaciously.

The second problem, also outsole related, was that traction proved to be a consistent disappointment. Even on clean courts, I found it to be only a shade better than mediocre; on less well-maintained courts, it was a lost cause. This was doubly disappointing given that the XIII’s upper is more than capable of keeping the foot locked down through sharp cuts and hard stops. To pull out an automotive metaphor, the XIII is like a sports car with loads of power and a perfectly tuned suspension that’s riding on minivan tires. It’s still a great car, but its wheels won’t allow you to make the most of its high-revving potential.

So, the Air Jordan XIII is not perfect—not by today’s standards nor by those of late ‘97/early ‘98. But it was then and is still now an audacious offering that fulfills every facet of what an Air Jordan should be. Shoes like the III, V, XI and XIII provide us with an indelible link to a particular time and place in MJ’s career—they are, in a sense, pieces of living history. But the XIII is no relic to be squirreled away in an attic or garage: it’s a hard-core performance proposition. $150 is a lot to drop on any shoe, no doubt, but the Air Jordan XIII is most certainly not just any shoe; it’s one that sneakerheads 10 years from now will seek out with as much fervor as those of today, and if you see value in that, you’ll see value in the lucky XIII.

Who’s Worn It
Michael Jordan (G- Chicago Bulls)

Reviewed by Ernest Kim, October 1, 2014
	Air Jordan XIII Overall:  Comfort & Fit:  Cushioning:  Ankle Support:  Traction:  Weight:  15.8 oz* * Based on a US men’s 11. For context, a can of soda weighs 13 oz.
Price: $150 in 2005 Key Tech: Zoom Air (forefoot and heel), carbon fiber midfoot support shank Pros: Generally good comfort; excellent fit, particularly around the rearfoot; excellent support around the foot and ankle; excellent impact protection with very good cushioning response and court feel; feels very stable; very light Cons: Experienced some chafing along the lateral side of my heel during my first wearing; unique outsole design can feel a bit clunky; traction should be better; expensive Buying Advice: Traction is a weak point, but in all other respects the XIII is the archetypal Air Jordan: high-tech, high-performance, high-style and, unfortunately, high-priced. Fit is exceptional and the Zoom Air-based ride, which was state-of-the-art in its day, is still fantastic. Fans of ankle coverage will love the XIII’s cut—players who prefer lows, not so much. All-told, the XIII is a wickedly compelling proposition that may bust your wallet, but will leave you feeling good about it.

So long, Captain Clutch.

I know this RE2PECT spot isn’t new, but it seemed fitting to bring it back the day after Derek Jeter played his last game—and at Fenway Park, of all places! The baseball Gods certainly do have a sense of irony.

The NY Times published a great piece on Jeter’s final games as a pro, and I particularly enjoyed this quote:

“He’s a guy you respect and you kind of want to idolize because everyone liked him … And he was a winner. He’s won a lot of games, won championships. That’s all you want to be recognized as in this sport: a winner.”

That this was said by a Boston Red Sox player—rookie third baseman Garin Cecchini, to be specific—tells you everything you need to know about Derek Jeter. For crying out loud, I’m a Mets fan, and even I’m sad that we won’t ever hear Bob Sheppard’s voice make this classic call in a live game again: “Now batting for the Yankees, number two, Derek Jeter, number two.”

Tip of the hat to you Mr. Jeter: You left the game better than you found it.