Wilson Smith III is a remarkably talented designer, a gifted musician and, most importantly, a truly wonderful person. He's also proof positive that the old adage "Nice guys finish last" is just so much fiction.
Prof. K: Do you have a favorite Kicksology.net review?
Smith: Wow, I don't think I could pick just one. I love to read them all because they keep us honest...the site provided a great, non-biased point of view in this industry, so I read them all for the insight and the honesty.
And it was interesting sometimes to read about competitors' shoes...it showed me what somebody who has a non-biased point of view felt about different products. And sometimes you surprised me...on a few occasions you've endorsed things that kind of surprised me and I'd think "Oh, let me look at this a little closer, maybe there's more to this than meets the eye?"
Prof. K: Do you think Kicksology.net has had any sort of impact on the industry?
Smith: I definitely know that we [Nike] look at it. I talk to guys about articles they've read...what was Kicksology's take...we're looking for things that are really true and that reflect honestly what our products are all about and we get, or rather got that from Kicksology.net.
Prof. K: You know, when I talked to D'Wayne Edwards and asked him for his favorite review, he actually picked my interview with you...
Smith: I saw that — that's too cool! D'Wayne's one of my favorite guys in the industry. Since I've know him, I've always felt a connection...his support and friendship. I really enjoyed working with him in the Jordan Brand. He has a great eye to what's fresh, so I always liked to bounce new ideas off of him.
But, you know, honestly, I did really like that interview you did with me. [Laughs] It sounds kind of funny, but what I would love to do more than anything is to somehow impart encouragement to up-and-coming designers. That's what I really want to be more about these days. You know, it's kind of like, now that I've crossed my 40s I'm looking back and I want to inspire younger people more than just what I do...it's not about me. I want them to know the potential of where they can go and what they can do, whether it's in footwear or any kind of design area. I really want to encourage people to be expressive and enhance their own lives and the lives of others through their design.
Sixteen Going On Seventeen: At top is the Air Jordan XVI and directly above is the Air Jordan XVII, both of which were designed by Wilson Smith III. Smith collaborated with Tinker Hatfield [Hatfield led the design of every Air Jordan shoe from the III through the XV — among countless other classics — and is currently Nike's VP of Innovation] on the concepts for the XVI.
Prof. K: One thing D'Wayne mentioned in my interview with him is that, aside from being an awesome designer, what was special to him about you was that you were a Black footwear designer and, at the time, there really weren't any other Black designers in the industry.
Smith: You know, the footwear industry as we know it today all kind of grew out of an athletic shoe excitement and renewal in the 80s. Initially, back then, there weren't many shoe designers, period. I probably was the first African American athletic footwear designer. I can't say that for certain, but D'Wayne's probably right about that.
Prof. K: Even today there aren't many African American designers in the industry, which seems curious because so many of the customers are...
Smith: Yes, exactly...I think basketball is such an expressive sport and African Americans have had such a big impact on the game of basketball. Creating for them and also being Black has really been an honor.
Prof. K: Is there anything you think that could be done to try to get more African Americans to see your field as a viable career option?
Smith: You know, that's a good question Professor. I think that a lot of times people just don't realize the options they have in life. People who grew up without many options...they need to be able to see that, hey, you can pretty much be and become anything you want to be in the United States if you just go for it.
If there's anything I'd love to do it's to encourage young designers — whether they're Black, White or whatever — that there's a world of opportunity out there just waiting for them. I think that's a big problem in America today. A lot of people don't reach a successful level because they just don't really see that the opportunity is there, but I want to encourage everybody that they can get there...it's waiting for them.
Blasts from the Past: Here are just two of the many popular shoes designed by Wilson Smith III in his previous stints in Nike's Tennis and Hoops categories. At top is the Nike Air Flare (1994) and directly above is the Nike Air More Uptempo (1996).
Prof. K: I know you started out in architecture...is there anything that happened to you that was a turning point in your life?
Smith: I was really blessed with great parents, which isn't necessarily something that happens these days...there's such a low percentage of people who have both parents in the home, and who are really focused on giving you the opportunity to be anything you want to be. My parents really instilled that in both my sister and I.
When I was young — about 5 years old — my mother noticed that I drew a lot and she said "Hey, you might want to become an architect because architects make lots of money." [Laughter] I was like, "Wow, okay, I'll be an architect." And so, from that point on, I started looking at buildings...she opened up my eyes to that.
She was quite a designer herself, she would design clothing and do a lot of things like that, so that was just a real inspiration. And my dad was really encouraging for me to get my college education...he was always "Get that piece of paper!" So, finally, one day I came to him after I graduated and I said "Here's that piece of paper you've been telling me to get for the last 18, 20 years!"
So I really think my parents were the biggest encouragements and I feel very fortunate...a lot of people don't have that, but I want to encourage them to go ahead and get that piece of paper and go ahead and go for the careers that they want to go for in design.
Prof. K: Looking back for me, one of the things I kind of regret about college is that I viewed it as a vocational training time vs. just a time to learn. Knowing what I know now, I wish I had seen it more as a learning opportunity vs. vocational training...
Smith: That's a really good point. When I studied architecture in school one of my professors said: "We're teaching you about architecture. We're not necessarily making you an architect."
The great thing about that way of looking at it is that once you understand the concept of how to put a building together, you can apply that to almost anything — including shoes! It's really more about learning how to think or create...that's why it's important to learn things like philosophy. Just kind of learning how things work...more the process than just going toward designing a particular item. It's better to learn the process.
Prof. K: Has there been an instance when you were able to apply something specific that you learned in college to your work?
Smith: Yes, absolutely. Something that I loved was art history. I actually didn't realize how much I liked it while I was in college, but since then, so many of the shoes I work on are metaphors for different eras of art...I'm really inspired by that.
An example of that is a Jordan shoe I worked on, the Masterpiece, that was heavily inspired by Mondrian's work [see image below]. I could just look back over so many shoes that were really inspired by different periods of art and design and architecture. I always love to do metaphors off of something already existing like that.
Inspired by a Masterpiece: Smith's love of art history has provided the inspiration for many of the shoes he's designed. An example of this is the Jordan Jumpman Team Masterpiece, which was inspired by the work of Dutch painter Piet Mondrian.
Prof. K: How long have you been at Nike now?
Smith: I've been at Nike now 20 years...it's been a real kick. I never thought I'd stay there that long, but the interesting thing is that with the whole design thing, every new product is like a new job. So, even though I've been there 20 years, it feels like it's always a new experience. So that's been really fun.
I've worked in almost every shoe category...I've spent time in tennis and cross training, eventually worked in hoops, then over to the Jordan Brand and then once again into tennis where I've probably spent the most time. And it's fun now coming back to tennis, knowing what I think I know about some of the other areas and trying to apply some of those insights to tennis.
Prof. K: Can you talk a little bit more about that...you have the whole thing with Serena, which is so exciting...what are you guys planning for tennis?
Smith: I think tennis has a tremendous upside now because it's been kind of overlooked, but the original sneakers were tennis shoes.
You had running shoes and then you had basketball shoes, but there was always this notion that sneakers were tennis shoes. And then that kind of became more of, like cross training shoes, in the late 80s to 90s. But tennis shoes are still the simplest, cleanest white sneakers and what an opportunity to really get some fun footwear around tennis, which is something that we just haven't paid much attention to.
Prof. K: It's like the undiscovered country of footwear, no one's really gone there in a long time...
Smith: I think it is, and it's got the history. Some of the strongest history in shoes, like the Stan Smith and Jack Purcell...some of those shoes are just really beautiful, clean shoes.
Prof. K: One thing I noticed that I thought was interesting was that tennis shoes were the first, I think, to feature a radiused outsole on the medial side of the forefoot, and then that feature made its way over to basketball. Do you see more of that kind technology transfer happening?
Smith: Absolutely.
You know, it's funny...in tennis, even though it looks like it's a pristine sport, it's brutal out there! And the only thing a tennis player has...he has his racket, his shoes, clothing...that's pretty much all he has. And so the shoes have to really perform and they need to be very durable. They need to move with the way the person moves on the court. And what happens on the inside of the foot is really different from what happens on the outside because it's a sport with a lot of lateral movement...you're going from side-to-side, so you may push off on the inside, and you may need to stop on the outside.
So, tennis shoes need to respond to those factors in the sport, so that medial radius...that inside radius of the shoe...that all came from tennis.
Prof. K: Are there things from your previous experience in Hoops and Jordan that you think will carry over to tennis?
Smith: One thing I love about hoops shoes is that they have both performance and attitude. I think the whole kind of fun attitude of a hoops shoe applied to a tennis shoe could be a really great and refreshing thing.
I think basketball shoes also tend to be pretty straightforward and bold in their statement...the good ones often make a clean, great statement, and that's something I think needs to happen more in tennis. I think a lot of times a person will set out to design something thinking of all of the factors and, the next thing you know, it's a little too busy. So I'm hoping that we can create some stuff that's more straightforward.
Transformer: Shown above is Serena Williams' first signature shoe from Nike: the Shox Glamour SW. In the foreground is the shoe with the extended, removable gaiter attached and in the background is the Shox Glamour on its own. The gaiter, which gives the shoe the look of a stylish boot, was custom made for Serena and, at least for now, there are no plans to make it available to the public. The shoe itself, on the other hand, will be available in stores this January. Note the ultra-low-profile Shox structures at the heel and the subtle laser engraving on the top of the toebox.
Prof. K: It seems like the upcoming Serena shoe is a good example of that...
Smith: Hopefully!
We had so much fun working with her and creating something that reflects her personality and style of play.
Prof. K: How did her needs as a power player affect the design of the shoe?
Smith: Serena moves powerfully around the court and Shox technology works really great for her because it reduces reverberating forces from the court. Shox gives her the right cushioning for such a powerful game.
Prof. K: Could you talk a little bit more about that? From the photos I've seen, it looks like the Shox columns are shaped differently from previous Shox implementations.
Smith: You know, in design, a lot of times a sport will just tell you what the product needs to be...it's like "form follows function" in architecture. Looking at tennis, you really want to feel the court, you want to be low-to-the-ground. So we created low-profile Shox that allow you to really feel the court. We've been able to create this very specific cushioning for certain regions of the foot where we need it and were able to make it lower than a lot of other tennis shoes.
Prof. K: Will you be doing a men's tennis shoe with Shox as well?
Smith: Yes, it really makes total sense to do it for both Men and Women.
Prof. K: Jumping back to Serena then, does her shoe have a name yet?
Smith: Yes, it's the Nike Shox Glamour SW and it will be available in January '05.
Prof. K: Do you think they'll ever let her play with the boot part of the shoe attached?
Smith: [Laughs] I think that eventually...everything takes a little time. It's like when Michael first wore the initial Air Jordan and the league didn't want him to wear it because the colors were too much. It just takes a while sometimes for the governing bodies in sports to come up to it, but I'm sure they'll eventually be open to it...in some tournaments at least.
Prof. K: I know the highlights keep coming, like the recent situation with Serena, but in the time that you've been with Nike, do you have a "peak" highlight?
Smith: The highlights for me have been working with athletes, the major ones being Michael Jordan, Andre Agassi and Serena...
American Beauty: As cool as Serena's new shoe looks in the image up above, it somehow looks even better in this shot right here.
Prof. K: Michael who?
Smith: [Laughter] Well, the order, in terms of the people I've worked with the longest would be Andre, then, of course, Michael and now Serena.
They're fascinating people to learn from. I mean, their abilities to focus...I think the three of them focus incredibly well...I've learned so much about that — discipline and focus.
And I just love what Andre is doing now with his philanthropy. He has this amazing school in Vegas that's for under-privileged kids. The great thing about it is that they have a higher ratio of teachers-per-student, and now everybody wants to get in because the students are achieving so much academically.
And a lot of it just comes from Andre, he's just such a giver. I so respect him and I've always felt that he's a great person. So it's really cool to see him be able to do things like that...I think that's one of his biggest motivations to continue to be at the top of his game.
Prof. K: He never really promotes those things...
Smith: No, he doesn't. He knows that the really good stuff isn't necessarily always publicized. But that's one of the really great things he does.
I've learned a lot from all of those guys. Michael is one of the most incredible human beings and you can just learn from observing him. I'm just amazed that somebody with his ability and all of who he is, that he's still so down to earth and balanced in himself.
When he's in a meeting he always pays attention to everyone involved and brings people into the setting...if they weren't there, he tries to engage them. And he's just a really funny guy, he's just amazing...he controls the conversation. [Laughs] But they're really fun to be a part of.
I've been in settings where he and Charles Barkley...it's like an NBA fraternity...they're on a whole different level and it's just so much fun to watch them interact. It's hilarious...some of the greatest moments I've had at Nike have been in those kinds of settings.
Home Work: Smith at work in his in-home studio. Although he's moved on to head up footwear design at Nike's Tennis group, His Airness is still a major influence on Smith's work.
Prof. K: Well, I can't thank you enough Wilson! I know you're really busy and I don't want to keep you any longer from creating the shoes that inspire shoeheads like me, but do you have any final thoughts you'd like to share before I pull the plug on Ko?
Smith: Yes, definitely.
In reading the interviews that've preceded mine, I've realized that there's something a lot deeper going on here. It started to hit me in Ken Link's piece and then Aaron Cooper's, but it was really brought to the surface in what D'Wayne spoke about.
His piece really moved me, not just for the interaction and mutual respect between us in our relationship, but in his message that we can all succeed to realize to some of our dreams.
Don't give up!
Can there be a more positive and needed message to the readers of Kicksology? That's what these shoes are all about: giving hope.
Truly, one can pursue and achieve his or her dreams, like Michael, or Carmelo or Serena. They are examples for us and hopefully these shoes not only just function well, but capture a picture of what their lives represent...inspiring us to greater heights.
Just as an example: we have a new rising star designer in the Jordan Brand, Jason Mayden, who created many of the renderings of the products featured in D'Wayne's piece. He's a key player in the future of this industry and he got to the Jordan Brand through Faith & Focus. Truthfully, I've never seen a portfolio of designs from college like his when he came to Nike and some of his new Jordan products will be out this year. So, to the shoeheads out there, watch as he writes the new chapter of Kicksology!
And to you, Professor K, thank you again for producing a forum of hope for many of us who know in our hearts that dreams are meant to be fulfilled. The word is out now. Let's just trust and do it...be it!
Prof. K: That's wonderful — thank you Wilson!
I know that what you've said will serve as an inspiration to a whole new generation of young designers out there.
And to you young men and women out there reading this: take Wilson's words to heart — the man knows of what he speaks. Even though it may be hard sometimes, don't give up on your dreams!
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